PLANTINGS
Watering: Roots of newly planted shrubs and trees should not dry out completely for extended periods of time, particularly during the first growing season. If Mother Nature does not provide 1” of rain per week, then we suggest you water per the following instructions. Watering should be provided until November. The best method of watering is to run the hose at a trickle for 20-30 minutes 2-3 times per week (equal to 1″ of water per week). (We install rain barrels, too.) Soil, however, should not be soggy. It is best to allow soil to dry out between waterings. Clay soils hold water better than sandy soil and therefore require less water (the majority of our soils are clay). Also, remember to deep water all evergreens before the ground freezes for winter. This serves as a protective measure to insulate the roots so that they don’t freeze as quickly as they would have had they not been given this final watering.
Pruning: The only pruning the plants might require the first year or two is a shortening of the more vigorous branches to keep a symmetrical appearance. Thereafter, start a program of maintenance pruning. Many trees can be pruned throughout the year; some, such as maple, walnut and birch, should be pruned during late Spring/early Summer to prevent loss of sap. Oaks should only be pruned during dormancy to prevent occurrence of Oak Wilt disease, usually fatal. Pines and evergreens have specific requirements. Call Ganshert’s to help you with your pruning! Fertilizer: If needed, newly installed shrubs and trees were fertilized with time-release fertilizer at the time of planting. It will not be necessary to fertilize again for 2-3 seasons. All plants were deep-watered when installed (this method is described above under “Watering”).
Fertilizer: If needed, newly installed shrubs and trees were fertilized with time-release fertilizer at the time of planting. It will not be necessary to fertilize again for 2-3 seasons. All plants were deep-watered when installed (this method is described above under “Watering”).
LAWNS
General: Keep newly established lawns evenly moist but not so wet that the soil washes away. A new lawn should be watered when the soil begins to dry out but before the grass actually wilts. This could mean sprinkling several times per day.
Sod: After installation, sod needs to be watered thoroughly to a depth of 3-4”. After this initial watering, water daily for the first 4 weeks making sure that the so and the upper 1-2” of soil underneath are continuously moist. Days that are sunny and very windy may require watering twice a day. After 4 weeks, apply a total of 1″ of water per week. Watering in the morning/early afternoon is best. Once the root system is established, regular watering is not required. If you choose to water your established lawn, water in mornings only. Sod can be mowed when roots have penetrated the soil (this usually takes 2 weeks and can be ascertained when a corner of the sod cannot be easily lifted). Set the mower at 2.5-3″.
Seed: Seed should be watered and not allowed to dry out until it reaches a height of 3-4”. This will require 1-2 waterings per day during the warmer months. It takes about two weeks for blue grass seed in the grass mix to begin to germinate; another three to six weeks before complete germination at which time it should be mowed. Mowers should be set no lower than 2½-3”. Straw mulch will break down into the soil after the first year and does not need to be removed. Weeds often become a problem two to three weeks after sod has been laid. They are carried by the wind and in the topsoil. Most of these are annual weeds and will therefore die out with the first winter if a healthy lawn is maintained. Fertilizer can be used after the first mowing. For weeds, herbicides can be applied after the fourth mowingOrtho Weed-Be- Gone liquid will work for weeds in new grass. Make sure to follow directions for fertilizing and using herbicides, or give us a call.
