So many tips and hints, we don’t know where to start. We hope you take away some knowledge from our suggestions. Make sure to check our weekly blog posting. If you have a landscaping question, send us an e-mail, and we will try to address it on our blog.  Check out our project portfolio—lots of ideas for spring!

“In every walk with nature, one receives
far more than he seeks.”
-John Muir

Growing Conifers

What better time of year to read up on the winter beauty that Conifers offer to your home and landscape.

The name “Conifer” comes from Latin and means “to bear cones.” Most of us envision a secluded walk through a snowy pine forest, or Christmas trees. Some of us say, it’s an evergreen. It is chiefly evergreen, but so is any shrub or plant that keeps its leaves over the winter. An example of a Conifer that is not an evergreen is the Larch or Tamarack (Larix). Also, remember “evergreen” does not mean forever—older inner needles discolor
and drop off after one to several years, depending on the variety. Shorter day length triggers the dropping or yellowing, so many conifers show symptoms in the fall. If you are not familiar with this natural process, it could cause you unnecessary concern.

These handsome varieties come in all shapes and sizes and their key trait is cold-hardiness. You can grow these plants individually or group them together in attractive vignettes. The dwarf varieties of species, such as false cypress (Chamaecyparis pisifera), Alberta spruce (Picea glauca), mugo pine (Pinus mugo), creeping juniper (Juniperus horizontalis), arborvitae (Thuja), and Rocky Mountain fir (Abies lasiocarpa) are also attractive in containers. The Morton Arboretum suggests combining different shapes and textures, different colored conifers or broadleaf evergreens in your container vignette.

Check the American Conifer Society Web site at www.conifersociety.org.   There’s a wealth of information out there and good reading, too.

Pruning

Pruning is a combination of Science and Art.  Like all true scientists, careful observation is required – in this case, to see how plants grow and how they respond to pruning. The Art of pruning requires an appreciation of shape and proportion: this can be a matter of personal preference and vary considerably.  Two expert pruners may prune the same tree very differently.

While plants are dormant (mid to late winter) is the time to prune deciduous plants.  Mother Nature makes it easy for us – without leaves, it is much easier to see the structure of the plants.  Winter is a great time to prune young plants and fruit trees to encourage vigorous growth the following Spring.

How: There are several methods of pruning according to the particular species and growth habit of the plant. Some plants like lilacs and many small shrubs needed periodic harsh pruning, sometimes nearly to the ground—while other species like Maple trees and Lindens need to have precise pruning to help select a “leader” or central stem to form the backbone of the plant’s natural shape.

When: Another consideration in pruning is whether the plant blooms on old wood or on the current season’s wood; if pruned at the wrong time the plant may not flower as usual. Therefore, some should be pruned in early spring, some in fall, and some in winter. Other plants require no pruning at all provided they are grown in an area that can accommodate their size and cultural needs.

Better Yet, Just Let Us Do It! Ganshert’s can advise you on the type of pruning your plants may need, and help you keep your plants looking healthy with routine seasonal pruning. We can also recommend low-maintenance species, which typically require no pruning when sited correctly. If you find yourself looking at a gangly plant in your yard remember that corrective pruning done well can help your plants make the cut this season.

SPRING TIPS

Perennials

1. Be careful not to remove mulch from perennials too early!  Wait til “tip time” when plants sprout to a few inches above ground.

2. To prevent spread of diseases, mildew, crown rot etc., clean up old and dead debris around your plants and flower beds, but wait until the ground dries out a bit.  Wet or damp soil also becomes compacted from walking — best to wait.  If the soil becomes too compacted, it can be a chore to amend back to a good growing medium.

3.  If mulch is thick, gently remove most of it around the crown of the plant leaving a thin layer for continued protection and to serve as organic matter.

4.  Top-dress beds with compost or well-rotted manure. This will reduce weeds and help retain moisture throughout the growing season.

5.  Mid-April is a good time for transplanting and dividing perennials. It is best to wait until new growth is 2-4” high to ensure that plants will re-establish well.

6.  Spring flowering bulbs: After blooming, deadhead flowers to keep beds looking fresh. The foliage can be cut back once it has turned yellow or flopped over.

Vegetables

1. Rake last year’s mulches off garden soil to let the warmth of the spring sun penetrate.

2. Mulch garden pathways to suppress weeds (marsh straw works well).

Lawns, Trees, and Shrubs

1. Finish pruning deciduous trees while they are still dormant (normally by the end of March). Don’t prune any spring blooming shrubs or trees if they haven’t bloomed yet.

2. Know what you are about to prune (check pruning time so you don’t cut off your blossoms). Prune deciduous trees and shrubs that bloom in the summer.  Shrubs that bloom in the spring (Lilacs, Forsythia, Mockorange, Viburnum, Weigela) should be pruned right after flowering (not now).  Immediately after bloom (if needed), prune the following trees: Cherry, flowering Plum and Magnolia. Pines should only be pruned in spring before the new flush of growth (candles) reaches maturity.  Prune up to 2/3 of the new candles if you want a more dense growth. Do not prune older wood.

3. When turf is actively growing, call us to aerate your lawn by implementing a core aerifier.  We can help with this.  Give us a call!

4. Do not mow lawns until 2-3” high.  Roots are renewed in spring and initial top growth is important.

5. Flowering branches can be brought inside for forcing.  Good choices are crabapples, cherries, forsythia, and serviceberries. Change the water every other day and make clean slices above the nodes of the side branches.

Fruit and Berries

1. Finish pruning trees and berry bushes while still dormant (normally through March).

2. July-bearing raspberry canes should be thinned to 6” apart and tips removed.  Cut out any fruiting canes left over from last year.  Canes of all everbearing varieties can be cut down to the ground.

3. Newly planted fruit trees benefit from a mulch of straw or compost during their first full season.  Fertilization is not necessary and actually does more harm than good — including ill effects to the environment and as stormwater runoff into the lakes. Go with organic compost. It’s safer and more responsible.

4. If frost should occur when fruit trees are in bloom, gently hose down branches in early morning hours.

Gads and gads of priceless resources, just for the asking

We are very lucky that our own University of Wisconsin-Co-op Extension publishes a home gardening catalog of their publications available for sale, but you can view and print most of these pdf. publications at www.learningstore.uwex.edu